Días de los Muertos

Colorful calveras(skulls) and other shapes made from sugar for sale at market.

In mid-October the nights become chilly in Oaxaca as the Vientos de los Muertos(Winds of the Dead) arrive. Believed to be the spirits of family members returning home, the winds signal the start of the Días de los Muertos season.

The celebration is a continuation of ancient indigenous traditions adapted to Catholicism. The sensationalized image of the holiday in the USA, is belied by a season of celebrating family, community and continuity. While still celebrated all over Mexico, Oaxaca is one of the two most dedicated regions of Mexico to preserving these traditions. The other is the area around Lake Patzcuaro in Michoacan.

Paper mache puppets and sculpture in Muertos display.

In their homes, familys begin constructing altars called ofrendas built with sugarcane and decorated with marigolds. They displaying photos, special belongings, and favorite foods or libations of their deceased relatives. Businesses, offices, and schools also build ofrendas honoring their coworkers, teachers, and students.

Temporary markets spring up in the Zocalo, streets, and plazas selling crafts, toys, and candy in the shapes of calaveras(skulls and skeletons). Neighborhoods hold parades through the city carrying calavera puppets, marchers wearing costumes, and marching bands. Displays of sand paintings and papier mache sculptures decorate courtyards openned to the public.

Ofrenda containing favorite items, food, and marigolds for deceased relatives.

Usually starting October 30 thru November 2, family members will visit their family grave sites for all-night vigils, feasts, and prayers. Graves are adorned with offerings, candles, and flowers. November 1 is the night especially for remembering children and infants, Los Angelitos. November 2nd, All Souls Day in Catholicism, is the primary night of the celebration for the whole family. Earlier in the evening the family will serve a feast and invite neighbors and friends to share food and drink and remember the ancestors and those who past not long before. On October 31 children usually celebrate American style halloween, dressing as ghosts or witches or cartoon characters for trick-or-treating.

Visitors, without local connections, can observe and participate in public events in the city. Visiting the cemeteries they are expected to keep a certain quiet distance and respect the wishes of families for privacy and no photographs without permission. Some tour companies take visitors to rural villages on November 2nd and guides encourage them to abuse the hospitality of the local people.

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